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branja napisao:Evo Zu ako ti kupis mtb uzimam i ja i imamo ekipu
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Poslato sa Lumia 925

Complete the final tensioning
How tight should the spokes be and do you require different tensions for different end uses e.g.
touring, racing and off road? It is obvious there should be sufficient tension to prevent the nipples
from working loose and it is also important to note that tighter spokes make a stronger wheel. You
will not obtain a softer ride by using lower tensioned spokes the only effect being a less strong
wheel, so for all wheels there is only one tension and it's tight.
There is a decent margin between sufficiently
tight and theoretically the tightest the spokes
can be and as long as you drop into this zone
you will have a good reliable wheel.
The term tight though is ambiguous and difficult to define easily. You cannot use tone to quantify
tension because tone only identifies relative differences in tension between spokes on the same
wheel i.e. one spoke is tighter than or slacker than the other, there is no correlation between the
sound it makes and whether it is sufficiently tight, plus different sizes and types of spokes make
different sounds. Neither should you be guided by the resistance in turning the spoke wrench since
this is influenced by many factors such as friction in the components (e.g. aluminium or brass
nipples), type of rim eyelets, the size of the wrench and the available leverage and how strong you
are.
For example the lowest tensioned wheels I build use lightweight Notubes ZTR rims with a
recommended tension of 95kg (930N) and all other rims I build are 130kg (1250N) and each wheel
performs fine.
Chapter 4 : Building
61
The best place to start when judging the correct tension is to examine a similar wheel you know to
be good and reliable and compare the spoke tension to the one being built (similar means the same
number and type of spokes - plain gauge or butted, and a similar type of rim).
To help you build up your own knowledge and understanding always take the opportunity to check
the spokes in other people’s wheels but do not assume those wheels are correct since it is always
easier (and quicker) to build a wheel with spokes at a lower tension and you will come across many
examples of these. When doing race tech support the vast majority of wheels I see are under
tensioned poorly built wheels, yet even with low tension they perform their function well but are
prone to going out of true.
It’s better to deflate the tyre on your reference wheel since an inflated tyre reduces the spoke
tension slightly. Choose a pair of almost parallel spokes on the reference wheel (on the same side)
and flex them at mid point and make a comparison with your own wheel. Do not compare the tone
of the spokes to those in the comparison wheel, this tells you nothing unless it’s a brand new wheel
(no sound deadening grime on it) of the same specification. As you build more wheels you just get
to know what is tight and what is slack. Note also that the relative spoke tension is different for the
front, rear and rear drive side and also both sides of a front disc hub, so only compare like with
like.
Can they be too tight – yes, but it’s not the spoke that is the limiting factor because spokes have an
easy life in the wheel and do not reach anywhere near their limits of tension (assuming you are
using good quality spokes). The limiting factor is the rim that is subjected to extremely high
compressive forces and it can only take so much before it starts to lose its shape.